Vegetarian Kyiv Part I: Simple Everyday Cafes

Kyiv is an awesome city for vegetarians: it’s true, at least in 2018. The same cannot be said for the rest of Ukraine, in my experience, but in Kyiv it’s possible to do really well. Let’s start with the standouts for everyday lunches.

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Green 13, in the Bessarabian Market on Kreshatyk, is my absolute fave. They’ve got a tofu burger that’s to die for. It’s just a slab of seared tofu on a bun, but they top it with pesto, vegan mayo, pickled onions, really fresh wonderful cucumber pickles, sauteed mushrooms, lettuce, and tomato. The result is really stunning, especially if you’ve been eating Ukrainian food for weeks and would kill for tofu.

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I love this burger, but I should warn you that this is a burger for people who love toppings and don’t want the taste of the burger to overwhelm. (This is my beef with black-bean patties: the taste of black-beaniness inevitably dominates.) Of course, there are other items on the menu, but I have to admit that I’ve never had anything else although I’ve been there like 15 times. If it ain’t broke… They’ve also got charging stations and free water. There’s some seating, but mostly at benches without tables–it’s not a super comfortable place. But it’s cheap–around 60 UAH ($2) for a burger that would cost $12 in Chicago.

Literaturne Kafe Imbyr near the Olimpiska metro station is another top favorite. They’ve got a small but powerful all-veg menu, including an awesome soba noodle dish with vegetables and tofu and, for breakfast, a tofu scramble with avocado toast. (Their English menu refers to this latter dish as an omelet, so I was expecting eggs, but it’s definitely a tofu scramble.) Their drink selection is vast and interesting. Once I had a lovely almond milk cappuccino; another time I had a strangely delicious drink that appeared to be ginger tea mixed with pureed pear. This cafe is significantly more expensive than Green 13, but it’s got a cozy atmosphere with comfortable chairs–a good place to hang out for an hour.

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Lunch at my university’s canteen. Go to the cafes in this post if you have had too many meals in Ukraine that look like this.

If you’re in Kyiv and dying for a salad that is not made of mayonnaise and cabbage, try the chain Salateria. They have a nice build-your-own salad option and they have tofu (though no avocado, at least at the locations I’ve visited). The ingredients are fresh and the serving sizes approach American levels. Pro-tip: they plop a giant spoonful of dressing on the salad but they don’t mix it in. The dressings also don’t quite match up with their titles for an American audience. So ask for the dressing on the side if you’re a little iffy or want to control your own dressing quantity. Salateria isn’t quite to the level of Sweetgreen, but they do have actual bowls and glasses, and they are located in Ukraine. They’ve got a water station as well–with glasses, lemon, and mint. The ambience is total fast food–not a place to hang out.

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Despite this sentiment, expressed here at Andriyivsky Descent in summer 2017, vegetarians can do well in Kyiv.

Next time: fancier spots for dinner and drinks.